Catskill Maison Bed & Breakfast

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Posts Tagged ‘local pork’

Chris Cosentino’s Incanto – One of the best EVER!

May 4th, 2011 by moffett

Tuna heart with farm egg and pasta

Snails and Snout with pasta

Tripe en brodo with local veggies

cone of cured meats

 

Two years ago I played hookie for a week from Catskill Maison Bed and Breakfast during ski season and went to San Francisco.  While I was there I had the treat of dining at Incanto, Chris Cosentino’s offal centric Italian gem hidden in the Noe Valley section of the city.  When I dined there Chris was known but he wasn’t a “celebrity chef” at least not to the extent he is now.  I ordered every piece of offal on his menu (disclaimer: pork is a food group for me and Cosentino swears by the pig, and if you read this blog you will figure out that offal and pasta are my two favorite things in the whole world!).  I had the pleasure of speaking to Chef Cosentino for quite a spell after dinner (being New Yorkers we closed the place down) and I told him that his restaurant gave me one of my best meals EVER, and coming from me (a self proclaimed foodie from NYC who has been to many of the “heavy hitters that this city has to offer), that’s a compliment because I can be quite critical.

When I found out I was going back to SF this past April needless to say, the first reservation I made was for Incanto.  I was hesitant, first because I made it for a Saturday night and I thought that service was going to be compromised, and second because Chris has become a hot hot hot commodity of a chef (and sometimes quality of food from a chefs kitchen is inversely proportionate to a chefs level of fame).  Well, I’m pleased to report that I was blown away AGAIN!  This restaurant is still one of the best EVER and a must must must go to if you have a penchant for homestyle, rustic, peasant Italian cooking.  The flavor and texture profile that Cosentino puts together is not far from genius!  I could go on and on about his dishes but let me just point out some highlights (yes we ordered about 10 things off of the menu that night and it was only 3 of us dining).

Venison Liver Bruchetta – OMG OMG OMG, super rich, super crunchy and smooth and salty and yummy!

Hot Mess – a concoction of trotters, foie gras, fresh local strawberries and jam – ok what sick freak pairs trotters with strawberries…and it really works, it hits all parts of your palate!

Pasta with snails and snout (pork snout) – not for the faint of heart (literally and figuratively) – this dish was almost even too rich and heavy for me…almost.  It was so decadent, but honestly I was glad to have the pasta with tripe en brodo (broth) with spring peas and leeks and herbs as a chaser…that dish was super delicate.

I think that the ultimate surprise (and the next time I go to SF I pray this is on the menu) is the pasta with tuna heart with hot pepper flakes with raw egg in the middle – rich and light, spicy and creamy and crunchy and AMAZING!!! (Sorry chef I know I didn’t do this dish justice)…trust me, this dish works on every level!

Cosentino also has  a cured meat stand at the Ferry Terminal Boccalone – I had a cone of all sorts of pig parts, and I had my cone custom made…great, but honestly I live in cured pork central (near Arthur Ave in the Bronx), so except for the fact that it was impeccably cured and the meat was properly sourced I get really good salumi here in NY.

All in all, as soon as I know I’m heading to SF again once again the first thing I’m going to do is make my reservation at Cosentino’s restaurant, great food, great wine, great service and great company BRAVO!…did I mention that he still is expediting in his kitchen on a Saturday night despite his fame and fortune?  That is a testament to just how passionate he is about what he puts on the plate!  Go Chris…Yes I admit I’m a Cosentino groupie LOL!

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Local Pork highlighted at Cochon Butcher

October 1st, 2010 by moffett

Butcher Paper bag

Cochon Butcher Meats

I just got back from celebrating my birthday in New Orleans, a city with familial ties and a foodie heaven.  I go to New Orleans often, and try to dine in as many of the restaurants that promote local and sustainable products as possible.  This trip we feasted at Dante’s Kitchen, August, and Brigtsens; all wonderful restaurants with a commitment to locally sourced ingredients.  However in my opinion there is no chef in New Orleans who is more true to the locavore movement than Donald Link.  I’m not a celebrity chef restaurant groupie,  believing that celebrity chef owned restaurants fall short of expectations on a regular basis so for me to have such high regard for Donald Link is out of character.  Maybe it was his commitment to the New Orleans community right after the devastation of Katrina that draws me to him, or maybe it’s his commitment to using as many locally sourced ingredients as possible because he realizes how important it is to support the local farmers (not to mention how good the food is when it’s fresh picked); or it could be that his food simply gives me goose bumps because the flavors bring me back to food from my childhood and relatives long gone.  Regardless of the reason, I’m definitely smitten; so much that we went to Cochon for dinner, Herbsaint for lunch and then right before our flight made a mad dash for Cochon Butcher to purchase meat and sandwiches for our flight home (possibly the best pork shop EVER!).  Like us at Catskill Maison, Donald Link sources his own pigs, he knows exactly where his meat is coming from…he’s a proponent of nose to tail cooking and makes the best sausages and salumi I’ve ever had in my life.  His head cheese, boudin (a Cajun sausage made with herbs, spices and rice), and blood sausage make you wanna “slap yo mama” (as my relatives in the south say so often).  Sausage making is an art, I’m always so grateful when our farmer/butcher smokes our meat just to our liking and seasons our sausage to our taste…I don’t take it for granted and nor do I take the artistry of Donald Link for granted.  I put my money where my mouth is, I purchased pounds of different types of sausage and head cheese, asked the butcher to give me a

 bag of ice and I hauled a huge paper bag full of meat and ice in the overhead carrier of the airplane back to New York.  I must say I’m very proud of two things, 1.  That I was able to get by the TSA smuggling all of my pork parts (HA!) and 2.  That the bag didn’t bust until I was curbside waiting to be picked up, I avoided the humiliation of having the entire airport viewing links of sausage falling all over the place like a trail behind me.  But even if they would’ve fallen and I had to carry the sausage in my arms it would’ve been worth it.  We are trying to figure out how to get Donald Link’s andouille sausage in mass quantity to enhance our dishes at the upcoming Wine Bar…stay tuned.  If you can get to New Orleans do yourself a favor and check out Donald Links restaurants, and if you can’t get to New Orleans, we will do our best within the next year to bring New Orleans to you.

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